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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e92 Click here to enlarge
    i wiped bird $#@! off my trunk and it had sand in it. Click here to enlarge FML!
    Hahah!

  2. #52
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    Sorry to hear about it, try rinsing that off first and washing. Let me know if it etched in to the paint.

  3. #53
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    yes it did. i use this 100% biodegradable concentrated degreaser stuff called BCD (amazing stuff) and gently break the $#@! up with my wash mitt and wipe it clean.

    its so sunny here, the $#@! gets baked on and im by the ocean so theres all these water birds around and they $#@! gravel and bits of shells.

    so i have a swirl with three long white scratches where i wiped it.

    i have turtle wax scratch stuff and rubbing compound but i never see results with that stuff

  4. #54
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    Getting ready to give my car the full once over today. Here is my current game plan
    -Wash with 2 buckets and Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II
    -Clay with DI Accessories Gentle Fine Grade Clay and a Meguiar's quick detailer
    -Wash again
    -Polish with Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish (with Glaze fillers) on a random orbit buffer
    -Seal with Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger
    -Wax with Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard wax

    Let me know if I'm headed in the right direction. This will be my first attempt at a real detail
    Click here to enlarge

  5. #55
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e92 Click here to enlarge
    yes it did. i use this 100% biodegradable concentrated degreaser stuff called BCD (amazing stuff) and gently break the $#@! up with my wash mitt and wipe it clean.

    its so sunny here, the $#@! gets baked on and im by the ocean so theres all these water birds around and they $#@! gravel and bits of shells.

    so i have a swirl with three long white scratches where i wiped it.

    i have turtle wax scratch stuff and rubbing compound but i never see results with that stuff
    To remove the etchings and swirls you'll need to polish the surface. A buffer is a big help in these steps as well. I usually recommend the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 with a cyan or orange pad and I follow that up with the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 and apply it with a white or tangerine pad. Again it can be applied by hand but like any polish a buffer is a big help. These polishes are highly effective at removing surface imperfections and restoring a deep shine! Let me know if you have any questions.

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SSDD Click here to enlarge
    Getting ready to give my car the full once over today. Here is my current game plan
    -Wash with 2 buckets and Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II
    -Clay with DI Accessories Gentle Fine Grade Clay and a Meguiar's quick detailer
    -Wash again
    -Polish with Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish (with Glaze fillers) on a random orbit buffer
    -Seal with Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger
    -Wax with Dodo Juice Blue Velvet Hard wax

    Let me know if I'm headed in the right direction. This will be my first attempt at a real detail
    Sounds like an awesome routine! The only product you are missing is a polish that can help remove imperfections. Follow my suggestion above with the M105 and M205. This would make your detail truly a full detail and provide maximum results. If you have any questions please let me know.

  7. #57
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    Thanks a lot. this thread is great.

    im going to have to get all of that stuff and try it.

    should i clay it 1st?

  8. #58
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    Ideally I would use the clay bar after washing and drying and before the polishing step. Check out our detailing guide if you need more specifics or let me know.

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    It's great to have your input on. this forum! I have a white and a black BMW that I had the dealer put the ResistAll sealant on ($$ but has 5 year warranty). Unfortunately they did not prep them correctly and they have waterspots under the sealent. I can take them back and have it redone at the dealer but prefer not to leave my cars. I probably need to remove everything and start over with a polish. Any thoughts? Thanks

  10. #60
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Glad to be on the forum and helping out where I can. My best guess is there is actually no protection on the surface and you just have water marks in your clear coat. Those programs are usually just a generic sealant and spray on protection. Their products are not exactly a scam but probably a gross exaggeration of what the reality is. To fix it I would suggest washing with a shampoo that will safely remove any left over sealant or wax, like the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash. This will help ensure you start with just the bare clear coat. You may want to use a clay bar then to remove contaminants stuck to the clear coat. It's a safe and effective process that deep cleans the paint. If interested the DI Packages DI Clay Bar and Clay Lube Combo is a great value. After that polishing will help you remove those water marks. How much polishing you will need depends on how bad they have etched in to the clear coat. I would suggest doing one panel with a light polish and monitor the results. If that doesn't work try a medium cutting polish followed by a light cutting polish. The Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 is an outstanding light polish and the Meguiar's Ultra-Cut Compound M105 is also outstanding for a medium cutting polish. This combo should help you get rid of those marks permanently. Ideally I would apply any polish with a buffer if possible for best results. If not available use medium arm pressure for best results. Upon completion use a sealant or wax to protect the paint. Let me know if you have any other questions.

    Greg @ DI

  11. #61
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    Hi Greg thanks for the input. I thought this would be the case. Sounds like a weekend project coming up.

  12. #62
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    how do i remove spots from my steering wheel?

    it has specs of dry paint that chipped off an old chair i use stuck to the leather and now some more new spots from the body shop.

    an all natural degreaser helped, but not enough.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    You always want to be careful cleaning the steering wheel so it's never slick or dangerous to use. If the degreaser didn't work I'm not sure what exactly to use that will be safe. I assume you have a vinyl steering wheel. I would try a citrus based degreaser like the P21S Total Auto Wash that will be gentle on the wheel. If you use something a lot stronger you risk drying out the vinyl, especially over time with sun exposure. Sorry I don't have a really great answer but hopefully that product will help.

  14. #64
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    ^ thanks. at least i know not to go crazy with it. i'd rather have some light spots than a slick or gummy steering wheel.
    ive been working on it little by little. I'll wait another few days before cleaning it a bit more.


    new question now
    what do you recommend for light blood spots in the trunk? degreaser? i moved away last year and i don't want to keep buying the good stuff all over again.

  15. #65
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    ^ wait, that sounds suspicious. seriously, i had a small shark and some big bait in the trunk
    they kind of rolled out of a big garbage bag i had them in on the ride home.

  16. #66
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    Blood can be extremely difficult to remove, especially if it's been in there a while. I would use a degreaser like the P21S Total Auto Wash. Spray it on agitate it with a bristle brush in multiple different directions and hope for the best. It may take a few applications for best results and I can't guarantee it will work. Sorry I don't have a fool proof solution.

  17. #67
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    Don't hesitate to ask any of your detailing questions here!

  18. #68
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    I know that the http://www.detailedimage.com/Porter-...l-Buffer-P331/ is the polisher that you suggest but I'm kind of on a budget and was wondering would this do the job http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G18? It is a random orbital polisher also and at a low price.

  19. #69
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by justohigh Click here to enlarge
    I know that the http://www.detailedimage.com/Porter-...l-Buffer-P331/ is the polisher that you suggest but I'm kind of on a budget and was wondering would this do the job http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...&blockType=G18? It is a random orbital polisher also and at a low price.
    Bump for an answer... @DetailedImage.com

  20. #70
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Bump for an answer... @DetailedImage.com
    \

    Bump again for an answer....

  21. #71
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    Recommendation, try PM'ing them, it will send an e-mail.

  22. #72
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    My apologies for the super slow response. I just bought a home, moved in during a freak snow storm, tons of painting, cleaning and more painting.......I'll stop crying now. Anyways very sorry for the slow response and I realize my answer is probably too late but I'd still like to share.

    There are two main problems with this buffer and buffers like it. The most important function of a buffer is it's ability to work in polishes and polishes are the step where you really restore the paint and create the shine. They lack the power to work in these polishes so it's not able to accomplish the most important step with a buffer. The other big problem is the buffing bonnet or foam material is usually a low quality. Getting the right pad is absolutely critical to a good job. When you match the right pad, polish and buffer with just a little bit of detailing knowledge you can get some pretty amazing results. In my opinion just work by hand for now and save up for the PC if possible down the road or ask for it as a gift. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

    Greg @ DI

  23. #73
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DetailedImage.com Click here to enlarge
    My apologies for the super slow response. I just bought a home, moved in during a freak snow storm, tons of painting, cleaning and more painting.......I'll stop crying now. Anyways very sorry for the slow response and I realize my answer is probably too late but I'd still like to share.

    There are two main problems with this buffer and buffers like it. The most important function of a buffer is it's ability to work in polishes and polishes are the step where you really restore the paint and create the shine. They lack the power to work in these polishes so it's not able to accomplish the most important step with a buffer. The other big problem is the buffing bonnet or foam material is usually a low quality. Getting the right pad is absolutely critical to a good job. When you match the right pad, polish and buffer with just a little bit of detailing knowledge you can get some pretty amazing results. In my opinion just work by hand for now and save up for the PC if possible down the road or ask for it as a gift. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

    Greg @ DI
    Better late than never, thanks for the response.

  24. #74
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    Thank you for your patience!

    Happy Holidays!

    Greg

  25. #75
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    Don't know if this thread is still relevant.

    I started using a buffer for the first time today. It's a basic buffer that goes back and forth, nothing to advanced. Being my first time I didn't want to risk messing up the paint. My question is when I apply the wax, how long should I wait to start buffing it. Also after I buff it how long should I wait to wipe it down with the cloth.
    Click here to enlarge

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